Crash Course On Diamonds
Starting to look for a diamond engagement ring for your significant other? Don’t know where to start? Allow me to offer some clarity, if you will. In this blog I will walk you through the 4 major characteristics of a diamond.
Congratulations
First off, congratulations on making it in your relationship to this point! A proposal with a diamond engagement ring is a beautiful tradition that your soon-to-be fiancé has no doubt been dreaming of for some time now. A diamond is the hardest rock on earth; it cannot be broken by anything other than another diamond. The strength and timeless beauty of a diamond make it the perfect stone to represent the commitment of marriage. By no means do you need a diamond to show that you’re married, but a diamond engagement ring is simply a representation of your solid and unbreakable commitment to your spouse.
Learning About Diamonds
There are four main characteristics we look to when grading a stone in the diamond industry. We call them the four C’s. They are as follows and in the order I believe is of correct importance; Cut, Color, Clarity, and Carat Weight (Ct..) I must add that there are many other characteristics that play a role in the grading of a diamond, but for now let’s start with basics. The following sections highlight an abridged version of the details of the four C’s. If you would like more information, please reach out to me and I would love to help! Or visit The Gemological Institute Of America (G.I.A.) website. G.I.A. professionals are considered the foremost experts on diamond grading in the country and around the world. They go further into the four C’s in much detail HERE.
Cut
I place a diamond’s cut as the most important feature because if the diamond isn’t fashioned proportionally, it simply will not shine. When it comes to G.I.A. certified diamonds, only round diamonds are assigned a cut grade. You may ask; “with so many popular cuts of diamonds nowadays, why do only round diamonds receive a cut grade?” Simply put, rounds perform better with light than many other diamonds and G.I.A. can grade this light performance.
Now, cut does not necessarily mean the shape of the diamond. It refers to the measurements and percentages of the diamond. When the angles and the measurements align they make for a very brilliant looking diamond. G.I.A. measures cut based on it’s brilliance, fire, and scintillation. The scale to grade cuts proceeds as follows: Excellent (EX), Very Good (VG) Good (G), Fair (F) Poor (P). The laboratory will grade the gemstone’s brilliance by seeing how much white light is reflecting off of the diamond. Then they will grade the diamonds fire by seeing how much spectral colors come off the diamond. I’ve been asked this question; Are they referring to the color of the diamond in fire cut grading? No, fire grading is based on the rainbow colors shinning off of the diamond. For example; the blues, reds, yellows, and greens all compile a diamond’s fire. Finally, the grader will look for scintillation, which is the interaction of the diamond with brilliance and fire as it’s moved around. The tests of these elements require sophisticated technology in order to provide the cut grade. Want to dive into even more about cut? Click HERE.
Cut Example
What should you look for in a diamond to get an excellent cut grade? Cut is measured by percentages, angles, and measurements. Let’s say we have a diamond that weighs 2.03 ct. when placed on a carat scale. The diamond’s diameter is 8.10 mm by 8.17 mm length (across the face of the stone) by 5.05 mm depth (measured top of diamond to the point). These are great measurements! One key feature to note: diamonds are a weight and not a size. You may have two diamonds that weigh the same but visually look very different. I’ll go into this more below. Keep this in mind, each round diamond weight has a specific range of millimeter (mm) measurements for its diameter. If it doesn’t hit that range of diameter measurement, the carat weight will be different. The diamond in the example above represents correct cut grading, because a diamond around a 2.00 ct. weight should measure around 8.1 mm to 8.2 mm to give the appearance of a 2.00ct. round diamond. Now of course, even if the diameter is around 8.2 mm, the depth must also correlate. Here’s an example I often use: Think of an iceberg. 90% of the iceberg is submersed in the water and we visually only see 10% of the iceberg. Now let’s compare that to a diamond. If a diamond isn’t fashioned well, visually it won’t look like a 2.00 ct. round diamond. With a larger or disproportionate depth measurement, a diamond may resemble that iceberg, with a smaller amount of its surface allocated to the crown (the part of the diamond you will see the most of in a mounting.)
Table, Depth and Girdle
Now that you’re acquainted with measurements let’s get into percentages. When I assess a diamond, I really only concern myself with three percentages; table, depth, and girdle thickness. Now again, there are many more details that make up the percentage value of a diamond, and professionals in grading laboratories certainly delve deeper into other elements, but these three offer a good starting point to understanding a diamond’s cut percentages.
The table of a diamond is the largest facet (flat space) of the diamond on the top. It’s the most important percentage measurement because if it’s too large or too small, it will displace light and the diamond will no longer shine as brilliantly. The table percentage is calculated by taking the average distance of each of the diameter lengths and dividing them by the diamond’s total diameter. Let’s go back to our diamond for example: The diamond’s diameter was on average 8.135 mm, then we take the diamond’s average table measurement of 4.5 mm. The number is then a percentage of 55%, which means that the table is 55% of the total diameter of the diamond. According to G.I.A., a diamond with a table percentage measuring anywhere from 52% to 62% falls in the excellent cut grade. Other laboratories will often narrow this range down even more to achieve a better looking diamond.
Diamond’s Depth Percentage
Next up is total depth grade. Let’s go back to our example of the 2.03ct. diamond. The depth percentage is measured by dividing the total depth of the diamond, which is the measurement from table to culet, or the “point” of the stone (5.05 mm) by the average girdle diameter (8.135 mm). Why is a diamond’s depth so important? Well, consider the example I gave earlier of the iceberg. If a diamond is cut too deep it loses light and looks super dark, if it’s too shallow it looks like glass and you can see through it too easily. A well-fashioned depth will allow light to bounce off the inside facets of the pavilion and back to the eyes of the viewer. The total depth percentage of the diamond in our example is 62%. This is a great percentage! In general Depth Percentages to avoid would be below 50% or on the higher end above 70%.
Diamonds Girdle Percentage
The girdle is the middle section of the diamond. It’s the part that connects the crown (top) to the pavilion (bottom). Why is a diamond’s girdle percentage important? Well, again think of the iceberg. If the girdle is too thin, a diamond is at risk of chipping - yes diamonds can chip even though they are the hardest gemstone on the earth! If the girdle is too wide, the diamond loses visual weight by depth due to the “iceberg effect”. A wide girdle also makes it very difficult to properly set the stone into a ring setting. Going back to our 2.03 ct. diamond as an example. This diamond has a 2.5% girdle thickness. This is a great girdle percentage, and lends itself to the diamond being graded as “excellent” cut. To give you some examples of insufficient girdle percentages which will result in a lower cut grading: A diamond with around 1.5% girdle is too thin, and a diamond with around 4.5 % girdle is too thick.
That was cut grading in a nut shell. Again, there are many more details when it comes to cut but for now this will help you come to the understanding on how and why cut is the most important factor in grading a diamond.
Color Grading
Now that you’ve learned about a diamond’s cut let’s turn to color grading. Most likely if you’re looking for a diamond you are looking for a “clear” diamond; something that doesn’t look yellow or brown. Diamonds that are “clear” fall into the D through Z range of color grading. Think of the Alphabet minus the letters ABC. The color scale is broken up into different categories based on the presence of yellow or brown coloring in the diamond. The first color range is Colorless which encompasses ratings of D,E, and F. Next is the Near Colorless range which rates as G,H,I, or J. In this group, you will see a very faint yellow or brown coloring. Then we go into the Faint category which consists of diamonds rated K,L, or M. In this range, the yellow color is more apparent and now somewhat obvious. The Faint group have very light yellow to brown allover body color. At this point, the presence of these tinted colors is becoming more obvious. After this we have Very Light colored diamonds which are N,O,P,Q, and R. In this range, a diamond’s overall body color is now visually yellow and or brown. Finally we have Light colored diamonds which consist of ratings of S,T,U,V,W,X,Y, or Z. Diamonds in this range are obviously yellow or brown in body color. After this range we enter into the “fancy” colored diamonds. These stones have enough saturation to be considered a “Yellow Diamond” or “Chocolate Diamond” (this term is often considered by diamond grading professionals to be incorrect or misleading, since it labels the diamond as something other than the actual color - brown). Now, you may be asking “why are yellow and brown the only colors used in the D to Z color scale?” Yellow and brown colors are the most prevalent colors in diamonds in circulation and are therefore the colors used to grade against on the D to Z color grading scale.
Color Selection
You may be asking: “What color grading should I aim for if I don’t want to notice any yellow or brown in a diamond?” Ultimately you want to aim for the colorless ranges of D,E, and F. However you can get away without seeing color in the G to H range of the near colorless spectrum. An important note: color is more visible in LED lighting. When you go outside to daylight, the presence of color becomes even harder to see, even when a diamond is rated down to an I or J color. So what’s my recommendation? Honestly, it depends on your budget. Obviously, diamonds in the colorless range are the most expensive. However, if I had to suggest an option where you get “more bang for your buck” (or “less color for your coin”, if you will) it would be a diamond with a G rating. You aren’t paying colorless diamond prices and yet, to the naked eye and in most lighting situations, you won’t see much - if any - yellow or brown.
Fancy Colored Diamonds
Is your significant other looking for a colored diamond? Then I can guide you through this often unchartered area of diamonds. Contrary to popular belief, colored diamonds are very rare. Now, you may see an abundance of color-enhanced diamonds produced with methods such as high pressure high temperature (HPHT). However, throughout this blog I am only speaking to natural diamonds that come from the earth and formed over millions of years. These colored diamonds are rare and are graded differently for color. Their color is based on any hint of hue that’s seen. For example even lightly colored Blue is considered fancy. As opposed to Yellow or Brown diamonds which fall into the D to Z range. Fancy colored diamonds are graded as follows: Faint, Very Faint, Light, Fancy Intense, Fancy Vivid, Fancy, Fancy Dark, and Fancy Deep. In these ranges three important categories to be acquainted with are Hue (the overall color off the diamond), Tone (how light or dark the diamonds overall body color is), and finally Saturation (the intensity of the color.) It is a combination of these three characteristics where we deduct a colored diamond’s color grading. Need more details? Go to G.I.A. to learn more HERE.
Diamond Clarity
A diamond’s clarity grading is the third characteristic of the diamond’s four C’s. I place it in this third position of importance because clarity, for the most part, is fairly difficult to see. When it comes to lab grading, clarity is extremely important and is a main factor for pricing. But to the consumer, clarity may not make as much of a difference to the overall “look” of a stone. If you can’t really see the marks (inclusions) inside the diamond without a magnifying glass or microscope, do they really matter? Well, when it comes to price, it matters. According to G.I.A. the clarity scale starts off as Flawless (FL), Internally Flawless (IF), Very Very Slightly Included 1 and 2 (VVS1-VVS2), Very Slightly Included 1-2 (VS1-VS2), Slightly Included 1-2 (SI1-SI2), Included 1-2-3 (I1-I2-I3). Simply put FL diamonds are completely clean to magnifying graded power of 10 times. IF clarity diamonds are clean at 10 times power however have surface blemishes such as natural marks left on the surface by cutters. VVS1-2 clarity diamonds are relatively clean on the inside when graded by 10 power magnification. You will most likely see one or two pinpoint specs inside. VS1-2 clarity diamonds have a couple more characteristics inside however they are still fairly clean. Then comes SI1-2 which have a main clarity characteristic that is visible with a 10 power magnifying glass. Finally we have I1-I2-I3. This is a broad range so let’s break it up. Included 1 is typically defined as 1 clarity characteristic that is somewhat easy to see even without a magnifying glass. This range is on the lower end, but I1 clarity graded diamonds are great for someone looking for a larger diamond and for the most part doesn’t mind if there is a black spot in the center or a white feather (natural break) on the diamond. Then comes Included 1 and 2, which I will group together because for the most part you can see these clarity characteristics and they don’t visually look as appealing.
When it comes to your budget, you may be asking “what is the best diamond clarity grade?” In my opinion, it’s Slightly Included 1-2. In order to even see the inclusions in SI1 and SI2 clarity diamonds, you still need a magnifying glass. SI2 clarity graded diamonds you might have to be a little weary of and scrutinize a little more. Some good questions to consider are “How large are the inclusions and where are they located in the stone?” The size, location, and type of inclusion will all make a difference in the appearance of your diamond. A VS, VVS and especially a flawless diamond comes with a steep price tag. Ask yourself, “Would my partner care if the diamond is lab-graded as super clean on the inside? Or would my partner prefer a little more carat weight with a lower clarity rating, especially if the rating grades an inclusion they can barely even see?” During my years of experience in the diamond industry I can tell you that-more often than not-carat weight is chosen over high-rated diamond clarity. If you’d like more information on the different types of inclusions in diamonds, check out G.I.A.’s guide HERE.
Diamond Carat Weight
A diamond’s weight refers to how much mass it has. A diamond’s carat reflects its weight and not a size. Diamonds are measured by a point system that ultimately leads to a carat weight. For example 200 points is equal to 2.00ct. Many people think that when we speak of a 2.00 ct. diamond it’s referring to a size. When it comes to each diamond’s carat weight, at least for a round diamond, each Millimeter (mm) in measurement is a good starting point to determining its size, but the diameter measurement is not the only consideration. For example a diamond that measures around 6.5 mm in diameter looks like a 1.00ct. diamond and a diamond measuring around 8.2 mm looks like a 2.00ct. diamond. But just because it looks like the size doesn’t mean that is how the diamond will weigh. Diamonds are a measured by carat weight. Again, refer to the iceberg example. Some diamonds can be too wide, making the surface area large but the depth small, resulting in lost brilliance. Some can be too narrow and deep, resulting in loss of light refraction.
Magic Diamond Weights
In diamond grading, we have magic diamond weights that allow us to place each diamond into a category. The diamond categories are broken up into two sections: “Round” diamonds, and every other cut falls into one group called “Pears” or also called “fancy shaped” diamonds. You may ask why are round diamonds sectioned off from “Pears” or fancy shaped diamonds? A round diamond takes 50% of the original rough to be cut, where as other shapes retain 60% of the original rough form. Round diamonds, have a cut grade where as other shapes do not. And lastly, round diamonds are the leading market cut preference. This is not to say rounds are superior. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, and some people like round diamonds and others don’t. But for the sake of grading standards, our industry separates the shapes. Within the round category comes the magic weight numbers as follows: 0.40ct. to 0.49ct. , 0.50ct. to 0.69ct. , 0.70ct. to 0.89ct. , 0.90ct .to 0.99ct., 1.00ct. to 1.49ct. , 1.50ct. to 1.99ct., 2.00ct. to 2.99ct. , 3.00ct. to 3.99ct. 4.00ct. to 4.99ct. , 5.00ct. to 5.99ct. and finally 10.00ct. to 10.99ct. . Now that is quite the broad spectrum of ranges, but these numbers are how the diamond industry separates and tracks by weight. Why are diamonds segmented by weight? Simply put: it’s all about rarity. As diamonds become larger, they are more rare. Separating by weight groups makes it easier for diamond traders to work with and assess diamonds.
Additional Diamond Features
Fluorescence
While the four c’s are a great starting point to understanding a diamond, there are a few additional features to be aware of when purchasing a diamond. I will touch upon three more in this section: Fluorescence, Polish, and Symmetry. Why is a diamond’s fluorescence important? Is fluorescence okay to have in my diamond? These and many more are all good questions to ask when purchasing a diamond. Fluorescence is essentially Ultraviolet light that interacts with the diamond. In rare cases of about 25%-35% of stones, the fluorescence of a diamond will actually produce a milky white color in UV light. Sunlight caries some amount of UV light. So, even in natural lighting, a diamond may pick up this light and turn a milky-white/blue color when exposed. In direct UV light, the diamond will fluoresce a certain color, which most likely is a vibrant blue. Does a diamond’s fluorescence effect diamond pricing? Yes. Depending on the degree of fluorescence, the result can be around a 20% lower price. To learn more about fluorescence visit G.I.A. HERE.
Polish & Symmetry
The polish and symmetry grades are often overlooked because they aren’t a part of the 4 main characteristics. So you may ask, “Why should I concern myself with polish and symmetry diamond grading?” Let’s say you take your car to get detailed. The company left a couple streaks on the side of your car and they didn’t quite finish the job properly. They leave wax lines all along the side of your car, and while the car “shines” and is clean, the streaks are noticeable and result in an “unfinished” look. This is all very similar to a diamond’s polish: the diamond polisher was rushed or didn’t want to spend too much time on this particular stone and therefore left streaks on the sides. Polish is graded as follows: Excellent (no polish lines), Very Good (minimal polish lines), Good (a couple more polish lines), Fair (many more polish lines), and finally Poor (too many polish lines). Obviously you want to look for the diamond without polish lines, allowing it to have the most shine. Symmetry is all about facet alignment. Have you ever walked into an old or poorly constructed house where the walls, floors, and ceilings didn’t meet at a point? Well in a round diamond that isn’t cut correctly, the 57 to 58 facets won’t align perfectly. This ultimately causes a lower cut grade. Symmetry is graded on a scale of Excellent with no missed facet junction alignment issues, Very Good with one or two missed facet alignments, Good with three or four missed facet junctions, Fair with four or five, and finally Poor with more than five missed facet alignment junctions. Why does a diamond’s Symmetry matter? Well, why would you want a diamond that’s not put together well? In the industry we call a diamond that has an Excellent cut, Excellent polish, and an excellent symmetry grade a “ Triple EX” -a term many diamond dealers and people seek after when looking for high quality diamonds.
G.I.A. Grading Difference
I must add a disclaimer here: the grading processes and guidelines I refer to in this blog fall in the realm of a G.I.A. certified diamond. Every laboratory grades diamonds differently. GI.A. has made a name for itself as the foremost authority in diamond grading. They are stringent on the grading process, which means the characteristics assigned to the diamond should be fairly accurate. Now, there are many other laboratories in the world that unfortunately don’t have the grading sophistication and instruments that G.I.A. has and therefore, their grading is different. When comparing two diamonds of the same color and one is graded by G.I.A. and the other is graded by, let’s say The Gemological Science International (G.S.I. ), the G.I.A. certified diamond is more true to the actual color and clarity grades rather than the G.S.I diamond, which is most likely about two grades lower than stated on the diamond’s certification. This is due to the stringent grading process of the G.I.A. laboratories. Why should the diamond’s laboratory certificate matter to you? First off, you should know what you’re buying. Second, I think it’s unfair to inflate a diamond’s grade to better - the reason for doing so most often being in order to raise the price. Many people ask me, well is that allowed? Yes, diamond color grading is all subjective: it is what someone thinks the grade of the diamond is. G.I.A. has the years of experience, and they have the sophisticated tools to grade as stringently as possible. So why don’t all diamond distributors certify their diamonds with G.I.A.? A more strict diamond grading process results in lower colored or lower clarity diamonds looking bad on certification papers. As a general rule, sales people focus on the actual diamond and not the paper. Selling the diamond that looks sparkly and brilliant no matter what is far easier than pulling out a report that has multiple clarity characteristics in red on the diamond plot diagram that look like “red flags”. When it looks bad on paper it’s harder to sell. All this being said, just because a diamond is graded by G.I.A. doesn’t make it a “better” diamond. G.I.A. is a laboratory, and anyone can send them a diamond to be graded.
Thoughts on Certification
No matter what diamond you choose or what the certificate says, my recommendation is that you visually see and inspect the diamond. You need to look through it using a magnifying glass. You should place it on a white background to see if it has any color. You should hold it up to the light to see if it sparkles. The best way you can go about following these steps is to work with someone you trust! So, to answer the question “do I recommend having a G.I.A. certified diamond?” If you’re making a diamond buying decision independent of any professional guidance, my answer is yes, look for a G.I.A. certified diamond. If, however, you are working with a professional in the industry, the diamond certification may not hold as much weight. If you’re in need of help when it comes to diamond buying, please reach out to me! As a certified Graduate Gemologist (G.G.) I would absolutely love to guide you to the right diamond for your needs.
Diamond Pricing
For the average consumer, all of the basics of diamond grading covered in this blog boil down to one simple number: the price of the diamond. As you can see, grading a diamond is a complex and multi-faceted process, and pricing is no different. You can quickly do a google search of a specific diamond (including the grade for cut, color, clarity, and carat) and you’ll get a good idea of the range of retail prices you can expect. To go into a little more detail on the subject, loose diamonds are priced out per carat on various industry price lists. These lists are for wholesale purposes, and serve as a tool for diamond professionals. The industry list that I most often refer to is Rapaport, and nowadays these lists are backed by inventory that is all available to professional diamond dealers online. As with every other retail industry on earth, there exists a profit margin to be expected when looking at a wholesale price. The industry standard right now falls into a roughly 20% profit margin between wholesale price (what a jewelry store pays to acquire the stone) and the retail price (the cost to a customer). Working with a professional jeweler or diamond buyer will give you the peace of mind about your diamond purchase, regardless of your budget.
This leads us to the all important question: “What should I spend on a diamond engagement ring?” Well, in all honesty, it’s up you! There isn’t any formula. Some say it’s three to six months salary. Others say it’s one month salary. Whatever it may be for you, speak to your soon-to-be fiancé’ about it. What would I say to my friends and family when it comes to setting a diamond budget? Simply put: don’t start your newlywed relationship off in debt making payments on a ring. Set a realistic savings goal for yourself and work up to that while doing your research on the perfect diamond! Keep in mind you can always upgrade your spouse’s diamond later in life.
Ultimately
Hopefully, the person receiving this diamond engagement ring is more concerned with starting a life with you and the important commitment of marriage. Purchasing an engagement ring can be overwhelming, and often people lose sight of what is truly important when researching all the features of a diamond ring. Remember, it’s not the ring they’re saying yes to… it’s you! I wish you all the best in the diamond buying process and with your future proposal. If you need anything when it comes to your diamond buying journey, I’m here to help!
Thank you,
David F. Homsy
Graduate Gemologist
Gemological Institute of America
